Shaving your face isn’t just for men. Plenty of women do it to remove facial hair, to help makeup sit more smoothly, or as a quick, inexpensive alternative to waxing and threading. If you are thinking about starting, most of the irritation people worry about is avoidable with the right technique. Here is what to know before you pick up a razor.

Who this is for

If you want to remove fine facial hair at home, shaving is one of the fastest and cheapest options, and it can be gentle enough for many skin types. It is less suited if the area is already inflamed, if you have active acne there, or if you want a hair-free result that lasts more than a few days: shaving removes hair at the surface only, so it grows back quickly. If you are still deciding whether to do it at all, the trade-offs are covered in our look at the pros and cons of shaving your face as a woman.

What shaving your face actually does

Shaving cuts hair off at the surface of the skin. It does not pull the hair out by the root, so it does not change how thick, dark or fast the hair grows back; a coarser feel on regrowth is the blunt, cut end of the hair, not new growth. Because the blade also glides over the top layer of skin, many people find the face feels smoother and makeup applies more evenly. That exfoliation is mild, though, and it is not the same as dermaplaning, which a professional performs with a surgical blade.

Before you start: prep that prevents irritation

The single most useful step is to soften the hair before the blade touches it. Shave right after a shower, when the skin is warm and moist and free of the excess oil and dead skin that can clog a razor. If you are not showering first, hold a warm, wet flannel against your face for a minute. Then apply a shaving cream or gel rather than bar soap, so the razor glides instead of dragging. If your skin is dry or sensitive, look for a cream labelled for sensitive skin.

How to shave your face without razor burn

  • Shave in the direction the hair grows. Going with the grain is the step dermatologists single out as the most important for preventing razor bumps and burns.
  • Use light, short strokes and let the razor do the work. Pressing harder does not give a closer shave, it just irritates the skin.
  • Do not pull or stretch the skin taut. Stretching lets the blade cut below the surface, which is what leads to ingrown hairs.
  • Rinse the blade after every swipe so it does not clog and drag.
  • Use a sharp blade, and replace it (or a disposable razor) after about five to seven shaves.

If you are not sure which blade suits reactive skin, our guide to choosing a shaving blade for sensitive skin walks through the options.

What to use before and after

For most people a dedicated shaving cream or gel is enough of a cushion, and a cream is easier to spread and rinse than soap, which can leave the skin tight. After you finish, rinse with cool water and pat, don’t rub, your face dry. A light, fragrance-free moisturiser helps calm the skin. An alcohol-heavy splash stings freshly shaved skin and is not the soothing step it sounds like; an alcohol-free aftershave or a plain moisturiser is the calmer choice. If you are unsure what these products are for, our explainer on what aftershave is for covers it.

Razor bumps, ingrown hairs and breakouts

Small red bumps that appear where you shave are usually ingrown hairs or irritated follicles, not acne. They happen when a hair is cut short enough, or left with a sharp edge, to curl back into the skin, which the skin then reacts to; coarse or curly hair makes this more likely. The fix is the technique above: shave with the grain, keep the skin relaxed, and never pluck a hair out of a bump, because picking and squeezing tends to make it worse. If you already break out after shaving and want the full set of causes, our guide to what causes breakouts after shaving goes deeper.

How often should you shave your face?

As often as your skin is comfortable with. Daily shaving suits some people and is too much for others; if you are prone to bumps, leaving a day between shaves often helps. There is no medical reason to avoid shaving, but give your skin a break whenever it is sore, red or broken.

When to skip it and see a doctor

Do not shave over active acne, cuts or an irritated patch, because you will spread the irritation rather than remove hair. If you have acne, shave lightly and try an electric or disposable razor to see what your skin tolerates; never try to shave an acne spot off. See a doctor or dermatologist if bumps keep returning, become painful or fluid-filled, or leave dark marks or scars. Razor bumps usually settle once you change how you shave, but persistent ones can leave lasting marks.

The short version

  • Shave after a shower, on softened hair, with a shaving cream or gel.
  • Shave with the grain, in short light strokes, without pulling the skin tight.
  • Use a sharp blade and replace it after about five to seven shaves.
  • Rinse cool, moisturise lightly, and keep alcohol-heavy products off freshly shaved skin.
  • Bumps after shaving are usually ingrown hairs, not acne. Stop if your skin is irritated or broken.

That is general information, not medical advice. If your skin reacts badly or you are unsure what you are dealing with, a dermatologist can help.